Fashion Photography Notes



John Spinks

  • first inspiration from magazines – caught his attention – 1987 he was 17
  • Matt Mchvwan – stark – minimal – unusual images
  • photo poche – entry point into history of photographers work
  • inspiration behind his work – taking ideas from other photographer – on original ideas – but bring own style to the work
  • Lee freelander – contracted well – familiar now – seeing villages obscured by branches
  • To begin with he stayed within rules within photography – but then stated breaking the rules – the began to dissolve
  • John practice a lot to become a good photographer
  • paul Graham – documentary photographer one of the first documentary images in colour
  • slow down when looking at image and take you time
  • started working in studio – slowly got commission for magazines
  • want to find not the normal model wanted to disrupt the normal flow and use teens
  • August sanders – his portraits look like
  • the nee village – by John Spinks
  • Herbert read – the green child – told it would be useful to read – book showed him the way he took images and helped him finish his project (the new village)
  • George sure – painter  – but painting look like photographers
  • different people have different views on the worlds – even if they are right next to each other
  • the book – new village took 15 years to make


he evolution of fashion photography

  • It is about the clothing and selling it
  • A record of culture, social change
  • David Bailey
  • Terry Richardson
  • Irving Penn
  • Helmut Newton
  • Important on how the clothing is been represented advertising i.e Vogue magazine
  • Corrine day
  • Edward Steichen Photographer dared to promote fashion photography as a fine art
  • Did not invent fashion photography but was the template for the modern fashion photography
  • Cecil Beaton
  • Horst. P. Horst
  • Richard Averdon
  • Martin Munkacsi
  • Louise Dehi- Wolfe
  • Guy Bourdin
  • Look at Rankin documentaries on photography
  • The second world war shifted the photography industry from Europe to America
  • 60s brought a new era of fashion photography
  • David Bailey’s work showed the British culture


Magazines to look at

  • Vogue
  • The face
  • ID
  • Dazed and Confused
  • Love Magazine
  • Harper’s Bazaar


Lighting Full Length Photoshoot

  • Think of your background and subject differently
  • The background needs to be 1 stop over exposed so if lights on model is F8 the background need to be F11


Theorising fashion photography

  • What is theorising- it an idea which is backed up
  • Therosisng fashion- 6 key words
  • Culture
  • Class
  • Communication
  • The body+ identity
  • Sex
  • Aesthetics+ art
  • What is a culture- a group of people- way of life in countries – politics religion- everything come under the banner of culture + it is always changing
  • The Eurocentric system
  • Fashion industry originated in Pairs in the mid 19th century
  • Influenced came from royalty and aristocracy
  • Paris fashion houses producing haute couture dominated the early 20th century
  • The fashion system is inextricably linked to the development of consumer culture
  • Paris fashion comes under threat from the 1960s with the development of popular culture
  • New fashion capitals of Milan, London, New York now compete in design production+ Marketing
  • Chanel
  • Coco Chanel 1883-1971 one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century
  • Transformed female fashion creator of the little black dress
  • First perfume no.5, 1921 best selling in history
  • recognised the value of using hight profile models and celebrities


Theorising fashion photography

Part 2

  • Herb Ritts
  • Bjorn Looss
  • Holly McGlynn
  • Mario Testino
  • Giampaolo Sgura
  • The body and identity
  • sex
  • Body techniques- we are all engared  with it i.e. by the way we move, what clothes, groom ourselves etc
  • Clothing is neither simple functional nor purely symbolic codes of dress are technical devices that articulate the relationship between a particular body and its lived environment. Clothed construct the habits of the self.
  • The language of posing- how do you pose your model?
  • Fashion gender- more women models
  • Femininity- females contive to create a certain look that is spectacle and that becomes the object of the normatively male gaze
  • Masculinity- constructs body techniques that communicate power and authority over the body and its habits
  • Helmut newton
  • Emma Summerton
  • Gender Fluidity designers express notion of fluid sexuality and non-binary gender in their work, these ideas are gradually homogenised from the persecuted fringes of society and transforms mass consumption by magazine editors, fashion bloggers and stylists keen to celebrate this new diversity with shoots, editorials, articles and blog posts a go – go


Holly McGlynn

  • Does Editorial, fashion and campaigns photography
  • Started as a fine art photographer
  • Award winning fashion photographer
  • Works for companies such as Mulberry, Levis, Cosmopolitan etc
  • Career Lessons:
  • Treat your photography like a business
  • Marketing, accounting, pitching, sales, know your customer, Tailor your product accordingly
  • be absolutely relentless
  • Don’t compare yourself to other photographers
  • Network
  • Embrace failure
  • Say yes to opportunities- and they say no when you are in a position to do so
  • Create your own opportunities
  • be brave
  • 35 images in her portfolio- but should be 14 but to start out have about 5 to 10
  • Working with models:
  • Working with models is an intimate job, treat everyone with respect
  • Prepare and research
  • Freelance photography
  • Favourite company to shoot for Primark
  • Assist photographers to learn how to work and speak with models
  • Collaboration
  • Only as god as your team
  • Find a creative team that shares your vision and are nice to work with
  • Give everyone time to do their job
  • Shoot, shoot, shoot
  • Lighting
  • Can make or break a portfolio
  • Hire lighting and experiment
  • Look at other photographers work
  • It is your job to interpret ideas in novel ways
  • Your idea your currency
  • More important than technical abilities


Kirsty Smith

  • Sports wear and catwalk photographer
  • catwalk photographers are mostly men
  • Shoot lots of fashion weeks like Paris
  • No one gives you a wage to be a catwalk photographer
  • Worked for Harpers Bazaar – but is not payed for it
  • Assistance work long hours a long side photographers
  • Shoot a lot of skate board photography  and behind the scenes
  • Want to be a fashion photographer you need to assist
  • Good way to get into fashion photography is street style fashion photography
  • Under 10 and over 60 are the main money for fashion at the moment
  • Lots of different fashion photography jobs
  • Being able to talk about the product and the industry they are in it will intrigue them
  • You can’t just be a photographer you also have to know film and social media
  • Politics and how effects the fashion  photography industry


Ram Shergill

  • Works for lots of magazines such as Vogue, GQ etc for 20 years
  • Works for lots of the vogue magazine such as India, China, UK
  • Likes to bring narrative to his work
  • For his first project he used the street as his studio
  • (For the lecture with Ram Shergill I did not get any other notes as I was to busy listening to what he said. The lecture was very interesting and I learnt a lot about the world of fashion photography?